Subic Bay
.
Subic Bay Freeport Zone (SBFZ) is located north of Manila. You can reach SBFZ by air (30 minutes from Manila) by toll roads (2-3 hours on Northern Luzon Expressway NLEX then Subic Clark Tarlac Expressway SCTEX) by side roads (3-8 hours) by bus (2.5 hrs. on Victory direct bus) or by ferry (1 hr. ferry Manila to Orion, then 1 hr. drive to Subic). SBFZ is a special economic zone and while there are many benefits to living inside the Freeport (security, atmosphere, regulations) there are also laws and situations which are different than the rest of the Philippines (see RA 7227 www.gov.ph). This may also include the importation of household goods and vehicles. Please consult with the web site of the Subic Bay Metropolitan Authority (SBMA- www.sbma.com) or the Subic Bay Freeport Chamber of Commerce (SBFCC -www.subicchamber.org) for references and assistance with those matters. I have tried to stay consistent with the information written concerning living in Manila but added some activities since this is a tourism destination. This is a rather small but very international community, ask other expats for assistance. Maps of the area are available free of charge from SBMA Tourism. The Chamber may also have some in their office. Inside the Freeport both Philippine pesos and US dollars are accepted and credit cards are usually accepted also.
Temporary Housing: When you arrive, many families opt for a temporary living arrangement while they seek out a permanent residence. There is a shortage of suitable housing inside the Freeport and it is good to have temporary arrangements so that you are able to negotiate your situation. There are places available with cooking facilities. Also inquire as to whether they allow you to bring in food, some do not. Pets are also an issue but allowed in some units. There are many additional choices available outside the Freeport.
The number of hotels, resorts and apartments has grown rapidly in the past few years. Ask for a discount for extended stay while you house hunt. Many of the hotels are new and will offer a decent, clean, and safe room for a moderate price. This is a tourist area so hotels are set up for this type of client. Beware of “in-house” prices for additional services which are higher in price but not quality than the rest of the Freeport.
Transportation: When first arriving and perhaps house hunting there might be a need to have transportation. Public bus is available, the company is called Winstar. Taxi service is available via Winstar or SBMA, be warned these are not metered taxis as in Manila but fixed rate and it might be cheaper to rent a car if you are planning on a lot of running around. Rates are available on a rate sheet which will at least get you consistent charges. Car rental is available, there are several small companies in Olongapo and there is also an Avis and Budget office. You can look this up on the internet. Some businesses offer free shuttles.
Where Do I Live? SBFZ has a few neighborhoods, a couple with security guards at the checkpoints. Choosing where you will live can depend upon a number of factors. Since the area is much smaller than Manila the choices are much fewer. Living inside the Freeport is more expensive than outside the Freeport. The level of security and the environment is also very different. Currently there are single, duplex, and row houses available. Apartment (serviced and not) as well as condo-tels are now available. Be sure to check on the property regulations and transportation options.
Another factor to consider might be the proximity to schools; there are only a couple choices available. The crime rate of the area can be verified by visiting SBMA LED. Neighbors are an issue and this can be researched by contacting SBMA LAMD office (047-252-4409). Houses range in price from $300-$2000 a month rent. The house rent is usually determined by the condition or size of the house not the location. Also the houses are small in scale compared to Manila as they were formally US military housing. That said some have been totally renovated and now have private tennis courts and in ground pools. Since the Freeport is such a contrast to the surrounding area it is especially important to find something temporary so that you are not in a rush to negotiate. Most persons use SBMA LAMD, word of mouth and there are now authorized real estate agents. Get the list from LAMD. If you put it out there that you are looking the property managers will find you, it is also possible to lease direct from SBMA.
All houses within the Freeport are subleased from SBMA (local governing agency) and SBMA is open with information concerning the houses and the lessees so it is good to also check out your prospective landlord. Leases range from 1-50 years and are held by Filipinos, Expats, and SBMA or property developers. Before taking on a property get a “certificate of occupancy” and verify that all bills/accounts prior to your move in are paid in full. It is easy to do all this yourself but if you use an agent be very careful. SBMA has a maintenance department and they do small repairs at a reasonable set rate which is then tacked onto your SBMA monthly bill, very convenient. SBFZ residents get SBMA ID cards, renewed annually, for a fee. All workers must carry SBMA ID’s. If you hire a caretaker and sponsor their ID you are liable. LAMD and Pass & ID can answer these types of questions.
Most homes require (as does SBMA) a deposit of 2 months’ rent in advance. Of course they will ask for more but it is not common. Something to be sure to clarify is who is responsible for what. There are residential rules and regulations and because this is an environmentally protected area you can easily get large fines for things your land lord did not take care of. To avoid this make sure a copy of your lease is on file with SBMA Land Asset Development Department, get a copy of the rules and also a document called “certificate of occupancy”. The certificate is free and assures that if something is amiss it is documented as the lease holder’s problem not yours. SBMA LADD also provides a list of authorized contractors and can assist with permits. Cost of permits is minimal and takes about a week which is quicker than in the US. Keep a copy of all documents unless you don’t mind lawsuits.
SBFZ is an environmentally protected area equals wild animals that roam freely, keep this in mind when house hunting. Do not feed the animals or you might have an unwanted friend.
Driving: The traffic in Subic is refreshing for most expats as we have signs, stoplights and friendly law enforcement officers. We report officers who ask for “tong”, it is very easy to simply pay a ticket if you get one. This might be frustrating to those who do not like traffic rules but to those of us who like to exercise outside or tour about on bikes it is wonderful. The traffic in Olongapo is chaotic in comparison. Most of us have our own vehicles and drive ourselves, even to Manila. If your home country driving license is valid it is very easy to get a local license (do not let it expire). There is a LTO office (www.lto.gov.ph for rates) inside the Freeport and also one outside the Freeport. The associated exams (vision and urinalysis) can be acquired near the office on Gordon Rd. in OC. It still might be quicker to get the documentation done inside the Freeport if you can. It is also pretty easy to register your vehicle inside the Freeport, it is best to do it yourself if you have the time and then you might decide to send an errand runner after that time. It is also easy to find a vehicle so it may not be worth importing the vehicle from your home country.
Supermarkets & Grocery Stores:
There are a couple of supermarkets in the Freeport which are not in comparison to those in Manila but we do have many products not available in Manila. Olongapo also has a couple small groceries. There are a few open air markets in Olongapo. An SM grocery is about two hours away. Pure Gold is new to the area and an Ayala Robison’s is in the works. There are a couple delis but the stock is unreliable in both quality and presence. Many residents go to SM or even Manila once a month for shopping. Be sure to read the Manila information in this area.
Dining Out: We have at least a dozen restaurants in the Freeport and good ones in the nearby areas. The water is safe to drink inside the Freeport, outside is your own choice but you can inquire and persons are usually very honest. We also have many places that will deliver, almost all do take out and a few are 24 hour.
Electricity & Utilities: As in Manila we have high utility rates. Unlike Manila some homes do have central air conditioning. That said you will want to be aware of the age of the aircon as the older units seem to eat electricity. Window or room units are available but may not be more efficient than the central unit if you don’t have good habits in turning them off/on. Many residences are wired for both 110V and 220V electricity, but you should check that out with your landlord before selecting a home. You will need step-down converters for your US appliances if your home comes only with 220V, which is the standard in the country. There are reputable service agents for Carrier, Hitachi and others.
Gas: There are no central gas lines in residences. Any appliance requiring gas will need to use a tank of LPG. These are readily available.
Water: In the Freeport Zone we have a central water and sewage systems. The water inside the Freeport is safe to drink (personal hygiene a factor) but some people have bottled water delivered.
Garbage: Pick up is provided by SBMA and you are billed monthly by unit. Regular, yard waste and recycling is available. Bins are not provided.
Mail Service: Philippine mail service now delivers to residences. Mail can be a risk; we do however have many residents who use it. There is a post office inside the Freeport and PO boxes are available. In SBFZ the zip code is 2222, get your correct address.
Schools: Expats seem to choose one of several options; home schooling, Brent International School or Casa Kalayaan. Information can be found on the internet but for all three I would recommend contacting persons who have or have had children in the various types of education available. Casa Kalayaan or home schooling is better for those who want flexibility in their lifestyle and their children’s education. A Steiner school is 30 minutes away.
Health Care: Good quality health care is available in the Philippines, although many of the facilities may not be US standards from a physical appearance perspective. Subic Bay Medical Center is in Cubi. A few new facilities (hospitals and clinics) have opened in the central business district. There are also other medical facilities in the area. When choosing a doctor or dentist talk with long term resident ex-pats to get suggestions on those physicians who have met their past needs in terms of quality of care and bedside manner. It is very important to be open and firm about making appointments as the province mentality can have them show an hour or more late. Once this relationship is established it is hard to change and I’ve had to leave the office to get the point across. Basic medical is available but I do travel to Manila for some medical care. I am very comfortable with a couple dentists in the area.
Weather: Our weather is similar to Manila but the area is a bay surrounded by mountains. Binictican gets more rain than Kalayaan. This is important to know if you have a big yard to water. Flooding outside the Freeport is not uncommon during rainy season, nor is contamination of the water system.
Activities: Casa Kalayaan offers activities similar to what you would find at a US summer camp even to children not enrolled in their program. Since this is a vacation destination the area is set up to cater to the tourist. Hiking, canoeing, kayaking, fishing, jet skis, para-sailing, sailing, motor boats, cycling, diving, snorkeling, beaches, pools, bird watching, zoos, go carts, golf, horse-back riding, spas…you get the idea. Lessons are available at very reasonable prices. The SBMA arts center has a variety of courses, seasonal plays and other activities. Subic also is a site of the SEA (South East Asian) games so there is a very nice new sports complex that is open to the public. The sports complex has a gymnasium, track, tennis courts, badminton courts and accessory buildings for yoga, boxing or ballet. In case you arrive and it is rainy season there is a branch of Slimmer’s World International in Subic, small in comparison to Manila. Bigger hotels have gyms and there is a new one named “Brookes” which is state of art equipment. This is also a good area for training for triathlons or similar events, a couple internationally ranked events are held yearly.
Safety: Living in metro Manila is just like living in any large city anywhere in the world. Living in our area is a bit safer. That said purse/phone snatching, counterfeit money or cell phone cards, change not correct, are not uncommon. Inside the Freeport is a bit safer and persons seem to fall into a false sense of security because of the gates and security patrols. Information regarding safety and security can be obtained from the SBMA IIO (internal investigations office) or SBMA LED (law enforcement department). Common sense will get you through just fine. There are certain areas where you should use extra caution at night such are barrio barretto (lots of bars). The same advice applies for those living in Manila and I would like to add that we should be careful with giving out any unnecessary personal information. Questions are often very specific such as “where are you going” but vague answers are easily accepted such as “to run errands”.
Temporary Housing: When you arrive, many families opt for a temporary living arrangement while they seek out a permanent residence. There is a shortage of suitable housing inside the Freeport and it is good to have temporary arrangements so that you are able to negotiate your situation. There are places available with cooking facilities. Also inquire as to whether they allow you to bring in food, some do not. Pets are also an issue but allowed in some units. There are many additional choices available outside the Freeport.
The number of hotels, resorts and apartments has grown rapidly in the past few years. Ask for a discount for extended stay while you house hunt. Many of the hotels are new and will offer a decent, clean, and safe room for a moderate price. This is a tourist area so hotels are set up for this type of client. Beware of “in-house” prices for additional services which are higher in price but not quality than the rest of the Freeport.
Transportation: When first arriving and perhaps house hunting there might be a need to have transportation. Public bus is available, the company is called Winstar. Taxi service is available via Winstar or SBMA, be warned these are not metered taxis as in Manila but fixed rate and it might be cheaper to rent a car if you are planning on a lot of running around. Rates are available on a rate sheet which will at least get you consistent charges. Car rental is available, there are several small companies in Olongapo and there is also an Avis and Budget office. You can look this up on the internet. Some businesses offer free shuttles.
Where Do I Live? SBFZ has a few neighborhoods, a couple with security guards at the checkpoints. Choosing where you will live can depend upon a number of factors. Since the area is much smaller than Manila the choices are much fewer. Living inside the Freeport is more expensive than outside the Freeport. The level of security and the environment is also very different. Currently there are single, duplex, and row houses available. Apartment (serviced and not) as well as condo-tels are now available. Be sure to check on the property regulations and transportation options.
Another factor to consider might be the proximity to schools; there are only a couple choices available. The crime rate of the area can be verified by visiting SBMA LED. Neighbors are an issue and this can be researched by contacting SBMA LAMD office (047-252-4409). Houses range in price from $300-$2000 a month rent. The house rent is usually determined by the condition or size of the house not the location. Also the houses are small in scale compared to Manila as they were formally US military housing. That said some have been totally renovated and now have private tennis courts and in ground pools. Since the Freeport is such a contrast to the surrounding area it is especially important to find something temporary so that you are not in a rush to negotiate. Most persons use SBMA LAMD, word of mouth and there are now authorized real estate agents. Get the list from LAMD. If you put it out there that you are looking the property managers will find you, it is also possible to lease direct from SBMA.
All houses within the Freeport are subleased from SBMA (local governing agency) and SBMA is open with information concerning the houses and the lessees so it is good to also check out your prospective landlord. Leases range from 1-50 years and are held by Filipinos, Expats, and SBMA or property developers. Before taking on a property get a “certificate of occupancy” and verify that all bills/accounts prior to your move in are paid in full. It is easy to do all this yourself but if you use an agent be very careful. SBMA has a maintenance department and they do small repairs at a reasonable set rate which is then tacked onto your SBMA monthly bill, very convenient. SBFZ residents get SBMA ID cards, renewed annually, for a fee. All workers must carry SBMA ID’s. If you hire a caretaker and sponsor their ID you are liable. LAMD and Pass & ID can answer these types of questions.
Most homes require (as does SBMA) a deposit of 2 months’ rent in advance. Of course they will ask for more but it is not common. Something to be sure to clarify is who is responsible for what. There are residential rules and regulations and because this is an environmentally protected area you can easily get large fines for things your land lord did not take care of. To avoid this make sure a copy of your lease is on file with SBMA Land Asset Development Department, get a copy of the rules and also a document called “certificate of occupancy”. The certificate is free and assures that if something is amiss it is documented as the lease holder’s problem not yours. SBMA LADD also provides a list of authorized contractors and can assist with permits. Cost of permits is minimal and takes about a week which is quicker than in the US. Keep a copy of all documents unless you don’t mind lawsuits.
SBFZ is an environmentally protected area equals wild animals that roam freely, keep this in mind when house hunting. Do not feed the animals or you might have an unwanted friend.
Driving: The traffic in Subic is refreshing for most expats as we have signs, stoplights and friendly law enforcement officers. We report officers who ask for “tong”, it is very easy to simply pay a ticket if you get one. This might be frustrating to those who do not like traffic rules but to those of us who like to exercise outside or tour about on bikes it is wonderful. The traffic in Olongapo is chaotic in comparison. Most of us have our own vehicles and drive ourselves, even to Manila. If your home country driving license is valid it is very easy to get a local license (do not let it expire). There is a LTO office (www.lto.gov.ph for rates) inside the Freeport and also one outside the Freeport. The associated exams (vision and urinalysis) can be acquired near the office on Gordon Rd. in OC. It still might be quicker to get the documentation done inside the Freeport if you can. It is also pretty easy to register your vehicle inside the Freeport, it is best to do it yourself if you have the time and then you might decide to send an errand runner after that time. It is also easy to find a vehicle so it may not be worth importing the vehicle from your home country.
Supermarkets & Grocery Stores:
There are a couple of supermarkets in the Freeport which are not in comparison to those in Manila but we do have many products not available in Manila. Olongapo also has a couple small groceries. There are a few open air markets in Olongapo. An SM grocery is about two hours away. Pure Gold is new to the area and an Ayala Robison’s is in the works. There are a couple delis but the stock is unreliable in both quality and presence. Many residents go to SM or even Manila once a month for shopping. Be sure to read the Manila information in this area.
Dining Out: We have at least a dozen restaurants in the Freeport and good ones in the nearby areas. The water is safe to drink inside the Freeport, outside is your own choice but you can inquire and persons are usually very honest. We also have many places that will deliver, almost all do take out and a few are 24 hour.
Electricity & Utilities: As in Manila we have high utility rates. Unlike Manila some homes do have central air conditioning. That said you will want to be aware of the age of the aircon as the older units seem to eat electricity. Window or room units are available but may not be more efficient than the central unit if you don’t have good habits in turning them off/on. Many residences are wired for both 110V and 220V electricity, but you should check that out with your landlord before selecting a home. You will need step-down converters for your US appliances if your home comes only with 220V, which is the standard in the country. There are reputable service agents for Carrier, Hitachi and others.
Gas: There are no central gas lines in residences. Any appliance requiring gas will need to use a tank of LPG. These are readily available.
Water: In the Freeport Zone we have a central water and sewage systems. The water inside the Freeport is safe to drink (personal hygiene a factor) but some people have bottled water delivered.
Garbage: Pick up is provided by SBMA and you are billed monthly by unit. Regular, yard waste and recycling is available. Bins are not provided.
Mail Service: Philippine mail service now delivers to residences. Mail can be a risk; we do however have many residents who use it. There is a post office inside the Freeport and PO boxes are available. In SBFZ the zip code is 2222, get your correct address.
Schools: Expats seem to choose one of several options; home schooling, Brent International School or Casa Kalayaan. Information can be found on the internet but for all three I would recommend contacting persons who have or have had children in the various types of education available. Casa Kalayaan or home schooling is better for those who want flexibility in their lifestyle and their children’s education. A Steiner school is 30 minutes away.
Health Care: Good quality health care is available in the Philippines, although many of the facilities may not be US standards from a physical appearance perspective. Subic Bay Medical Center is in Cubi. A few new facilities (hospitals and clinics) have opened in the central business district. There are also other medical facilities in the area. When choosing a doctor or dentist talk with long term resident ex-pats to get suggestions on those physicians who have met their past needs in terms of quality of care and bedside manner. It is very important to be open and firm about making appointments as the province mentality can have them show an hour or more late. Once this relationship is established it is hard to change and I’ve had to leave the office to get the point across. Basic medical is available but I do travel to Manila for some medical care. I am very comfortable with a couple dentists in the area.
Weather: Our weather is similar to Manila but the area is a bay surrounded by mountains. Binictican gets more rain than Kalayaan. This is important to know if you have a big yard to water. Flooding outside the Freeport is not uncommon during rainy season, nor is contamination of the water system.
Activities: Casa Kalayaan offers activities similar to what you would find at a US summer camp even to children not enrolled in their program. Since this is a vacation destination the area is set up to cater to the tourist. Hiking, canoeing, kayaking, fishing, jet skis, para-sailing, sailing, motor boats, cycling, diving, snorkeling, beaches, pools, bird watching, zoos, go carts, golf, horse-back riding, spas…you get the idea. Lessons are available at very reasonable prices. The SBMA arts center has a variety of courses, seasonal plays and other activities. Subic also is a site of the SEA (South East Asian) games so there is a very nice new sports complex that is open to the public. The sports complex has a gymnasium, track, tennis courts, badminton courts and accessory buildings for yoga, boxing or ballet. In case you arrive and it is rainy season there is a branch of Slimmer’s World International in Subic, small in comparison to Manila. Bigger hotels have gyms and there is a new one named “Brookes” which is state of art equipment. This is also a good area for training for triathlons or similar events, a couple internationally ranked events are held yearly.
Safety: Living in metro Manila is just like living in any large city anywhere in the world. Living in our area is a bit safer. That said purse/phone snatching, counterfeit money or cell phone cards, change not correct, are not uncommon. Inside the Freeport is a bit safer and persons seem to fall into a false sense of security because of the gates and security patrols. Information regarding safety and security can be obtained from the SBMA IIO (internal investigations office) or SBMA LED (law enforcement department). Common sense will get you through just fine. There are certain areas where you should use extra caution at night such are barrio barretto (lots of bars). The same advice applies for those living in Manila and I would like to add that we should be careful with giving out any unnecessary personal information. Questions are often very specific such as “where are you going” but vague answers are easily accepted such as “to run errands”.